Fabric Manipulation 9 of 9

This is the final version of fabric manipulation with gathering. I hope you Have enjoyed following them as much as I.

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Fabric Manipulation 8 of 9

A new version of fabric manipulation. 

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How well the circular patterns appear is dependent on how tightly and evenly the thread is pulled.

Fabric Manipulation 7 of 9

A new version of fabric manipulation. 

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Fabric Manipulation 6 of 9

A new version of fabric manipulation. 

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Dresses : Wedding

Several weeks of hard work and the wedding dress is complete [no I am not getting married, it's for a competition]. I didn't utilize any of the fabric manipulation techniques that I have been trying out, but embroidering the bodice with fabric was something new for me [if I may say so myself, it was quite successfu]. 100% silk, except the middle section is linen covered with raw edged silk. Bodice: embroidered and hand stitched with crinkle chiffon fabric. Internal bodice corseted and has a grossgrain belt, so everything stays where it should :) Lining and bodice of silk broad cloth, skirt: 2 layers of crinkle chiffon, beneath 3 layers of silk organza. A detachable train, also two layers. Fingers: bleeding!

Fabric Manipulation - 5 of 9

A new version of fabric manipulation. 

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Fabric Manipulation - 4 of 9

If you have been following my fabric manipulation entries, at this point you'll know the drill.

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Fabric Manipulation - 3 of 9

This is yet another fabric manipulation entry. Similar to my other entries: 1st and 2nd.

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Fabric Manipulation - 2 of 9

My second entry for experimenting with fabric manipulations. The instructions are pretty much the same as the 1st one. However, the pattern is a little different.

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Fabric Manipulation - 1 of 9

I have been experimenting with fabric manipulation. Specifically, gathering to create volume. In the next couple of posts I plan to show the patterns and their outcomes.

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Mark the the guidelines on your fabric, then use gathering stitch. When all finished pull the ends of the threads.

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Alexander McQueen Silk Chiffon Dress - Flounce

Continuing on the deconstruction of Alexander McQueen’s fabric manipulations, flounce played a big part of a lot of his designs.

This McQueen dress has a darted, bias-cut bodice with spiral semi-transparent chiffon flounces. It appears that they might be attached intermittently along the irregular diagonal seams of the bodice. The flounce also has an appearance of “glowing out of the seams”.

The skirt continues this method of construction, but with a greater intensity of voluminous fabric. What interests me about this garment is how the flounces are attached to the seams and how the bodice has both the structure and volume. Of course, this dress in person was absolutely incredible. 

Here’s a sample of how the flounce was made. To achieve the effect of a flowing wave, it had to be cut on bias.

Alexander McQueen Bosch silk-jacquard dress - Inflecting Pleating

Last week I stood in a three-hour line to see the Alexander McQueen “Savage Beauty” exhibit at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York. There is a lot that can be said about it, but I am pretty sure that what I could say would never really encompass him and his work in words eloquent enough to do them justice. In short it was well worth the wait in the heat with the crowd. The real reason I mention this is because I’d like more to address the details of his work than the generalities of the exhibit. Two words: Fabric Manipulation. It was endless, beautiful, and hard to deconstruct, but I’d like to attempt to do so anyway [in several posts].

The craftsmanship of this McQueen silk-jacquard dress is incredible. According to the Alexander McQueen website, the dress is inspired by 14th century Hieronymus Bosch paintings and was cut on the stand by McQueen. Black silk dress with hand-loomed jacquard. Internal boning at bodice with a concealed zip and hook fastenings at back and is fully lined. 100% silk; lining: 74% acetate, 26% silk.

Complemented the elaborately pleated skirt. This is the exterior inflecting pleating pattern. With enough fabric and patience, it can be manipulated so that it articulates the circumference of the body and still keeps its form.

The autumn winter 2010 dress is part of the last collection designed by McQueen before his death.

This dress retailed for £12,420 at Net-A-Porter.